Day 12 Friday 24th of November

Vientiane, Laos to Hanoi, Vietnam.

Our taxi was due at 11:00 a.m. to take us to the airport so there wasn’t much time to do anything else but go for breakfast.

We both chose a cheese and ham toasted sandwich and it’s very strange here that almost everything is sweet. The ‘original’ mayonnaise they promote is sweet, most of the bread is sweet so it’s rather strange because you’re not expecting it when it hits your taste buds!

Arriving at the airport in plenty of time, we’re getting good at this , we were first at check in and secured emergency exit seats…again. I was a bit nonplussed though that there was a business class and our names were not on the list . Gareth said he didn’t even realise there was a business class option on the flight .

Vientiane international airport has only one lounge, not partnered with priority pass so to gain access was $20 each. Bugger the cost we decided, paying was better than sitting in a departure lounge that was full to the brim with very noisy Chinese tourists, either going home or going to Bangkok! I must say, he had my full support .

The flight was 50 minutes and in that time we were served a snack and a drink! Made a boo boo with the transfers, though I also hold booking.com a tad responsible. Not remembering that we had already booked a transfer through B.com, when I received a message from the property through the booking.com.App, I accepted their offer of a transfer.

Coming out of the airport there was only one person with a board showing our name, so we jumped in the cab and were delivered to our accommodation through Hanoi rush hour. A tiny spat ensued between the property owner and the poor cab driver – sometimes you can’t tell if it’s raised voices or just voices , but this lad was told off for picking us up! Eventually we cleared it up. Confused by the message through B.com we had 2 transfers arranged! Will defo be checking that for the rest of the trip.

Anyway, we offered to pay but the property owner declined, it was only $18. We finally got into our room on the 4th floor, no lift, 30°, hot and sticky….what was not to like . Our room is lovely. It has a fab little bathroom and a small balcony where we can sit and listen to the old quarter of Hanoi carry on its frantic night-time business below.

We had a little rest, I had a catch-up video call with my lovely sister and then we popped out for dinner. You don’t have to go far, nearly every shop and property front turns into a food seller at night here. We walked a couple of blocks and then settled on a tiny restaurant for Ban cha – a pork soup with noodles and country chicken with coconut rice. Both dishes were served with loads of fresh green herbs and lettuce. Washed down qithan couple of local beers. Lovely.

Wanting to soak up some more of Hanoi, we wandered around until we noticed the Sky Bar. 10 floors up and a lovely illuminated view off the city and the lake – Ho Hoan Kiem. A great little find on top of a hotel. It looks like there are a few roof top bars around .

Walking back to our apartment – which incidentally, has a very comfortable bed – we happened upon the night market! Everyone’s got one . Well, we are just around the corner so looks like our sights to explore are all close, well chosen I should say .

Off to bed now, ready for a day of exploring tomorrow.

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Day 13, Saturday 25th November

Hanoi, Vietnam

Today there was cause for celebration, we put our dirty washing in the laundry 30,000.00 dong (about £1) per Kilo, worth every dong .

We had a fab night’s sleep, the noise outside in the busy street below our room died down by about 1am and didn’t start again too early.

After showers we popped out in search of breakfast. Last night we passed a couple of bakeries so found one for a coffee and a croissant .

Using the tour app we took a leisurely stroll around the Old Quarter of Hanoi. When we were here 5 years ago we didn’t have a chance to explore during the day so this was new to us both.

The route took us down the old Silk Street, as the name suggests there are tailors and silk shops all along. This took us to Hoan Kiem Lake, at night the roads are closed off here for a crazy night market. Today though, there was a lot of hubbub due to the VnExpress midnight marathon. Entertainment for the participants and children in anticipation of the race which starts tomorrow morning at 2am! It first ran in 2020 and attracted 5000 entrants. Not sure of the course but I do know we won’t be up to watch and support .

We then walked to St Joseph’s Cathedral. We had seen it lit-up last night and recognised it straight away. Apparently the French demolished a 12th century temple to build it in the late 1800’s. It is a very impressive structure and either is a strange colour or is in need of a spring clean.

From here we walked round to Train Street, now a little subdued due to health and safety concerns….now? Trains come by at 3pm and 7pm. In the past stalls and cafes were set over the tracks, so when the train comes, everything is taken in, shop awnings had to be drawn in and people stood to the sides , but now it’s much calmer. We were too early for the train so may see it tomorrow if we are in the area.

Our next port of call was Hoa Lo prison or as the USA PoW’s nicknamed it the Hanoi Hilton. Only one part of the prison remains, now a museum, the rest is built on, mainly by Hanoi Towers a huge complex which gives you an idea of how big the prison would have been.

It was used to house revolutionaries and then prisoners of war. Part of their collection is one of the original Guillotines used to behead prisoners. There were also separate cells for women prisoners and their children. It was a bit depressing in the end so we didn’t hang around too long.

As per our previous visit, we have found that the propaganda is a little too much for us. We stopped on the way home for a snack and then had a siesta .

Tonight for dinner we stopped in a traditional Vietnamese restaurant also offering vegan and vegetarian. We’ve noticed there are more restaurants offering this than on our last trip.

The food was lovely and the restaurant was very busy. When the bill came, the staff member asked if Gareth had a smaller Dong note, he did, and when she returned with the change Gareth queried the change. Both me and the waitress explained he changed the note, he remembered and apologised. Too make him feel better she said ‘that’s ok, when you get old that’s what happens’, we all burst out laughing, and, adding insult to injury she then said to me ‘that will happen to us’ made my day.

He still left her a tip, bless him .

We left the restaurant, still giggling and walked down to the lake. As expected, it was very busy. There was a live band playing to the crowd, couples dancing surrounded by a big audience – my auntie Lu would have loved it and been straight in there , and lots of people buying tickets to walk across the red bridge to the temple on the lake.

While we stood at the edge of the lake, holding hands, a young Vietnamese girl took a photo of us. We only knew when she tapped us on the shoulder to show us, we smiled and she said ‘beautiful’, and then walked off. How flipping sweet .

Wandering some more we spotted another sky bar. Up to the 11th floor and then up another set of stairs for a view that definitely beats last night’s. We had a cocktail each which turned out to be our most expensive yet @£9 each!

The bar is hired from the hotel and run by two young lads. My goodness, no wonder there were only European customers there tonight..

Another lovely end to a fab day, we sort of had our bearings and eventually arrived back to the hotel more exploring tomorrow.

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Day 14. Sunday 26th November.

Hanoi, Vietnam

Today has been a lazy stroll kinda day. We had a lie in before going out for breakfast. Then we just strolled around the Old and French quarters.

Down at the lake everything related to the marathon was being dismantled. The area was still very busy, not sure if that’s because of the marathon or it’s usual Sunday business.

Whatever the reason, it made for a very pleasant walk. We stopped to shop, then to eat and drink and then to shop again . For a snack we had Bahn Mi, lovely crusty rolls with your choice of filling, yum yum. We can’t afford to buy a lot here as our bags are at the weight limit for the internal flights we have booked. We’ll make up for that nearer the end of our trip .

Tonight we’re found a fab little restaurant and had a delicious meal where you make your own summer rolls, a bit like pancake duck rolls. We then went on another wander, ending up outside St Joseph’s Cathedral, known locally as Big Church. We were really surprised to see rows of people sat outside, attending the service as it was full inside. The church is lovely when it’s lit up.

We walked home via the market for one last perusal.

Hanoi is a beautiful place, every street has at least a couple of colonial buildings, big or small, to please your eye. Most pavement space is overflowing with temporary food outlets or parked motorbikes and scooters, you soon get used to walking in the road.

The roads are manic and always so busy, surprising then that we have never seen an injury or accident. Trying to cross the road is like a well choreographed dance. Just remember your steps and you’ll make it to the other side .

The hard work put in by the peddlars, carrying or pushing around their goods for sale, is a lesson to us all about perseverance. And how they manage to keep their two-wheeled vehicles upright beggars belief.

The people and their children are always smiling, the younger generation seize the opportunity to practice their English on you whenever possible. I’m sure we are stars in a few language videos making their way around the city as we speak.

At times you would think that no-one cooks indoors, they all seem to be eating each others’ food outside on the pavements and in shops.

Overall, we are pleased we came back to spend more time amongst these lovely people, though it will be nice to have a quiet relax, away from the constant traffic noise, beeping horns and dusty fumes.

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