GK Tours Day 2.
Tuesday 5th November 2024
St Malo & Dinan
In the past we have had some questionable ferry trips, memories of which sadly rear their ugly head when things don’t seem to be running smoothly. As we hadn’t departed from Portsmouth in a very long time we weren’t sure of how it would go.
Well, I’m pleased to say that our overnight ferry trip was excellent. Boarding was painless, the staff customer service delivery was excellent and our meal was delicious.
So, well done to Brittany Ferries. Our departure was a bit choppy so seabands were applied, just in case, but once the wind died down, it was plain sailing.
We were woken by the ship’s morning alarm, amazing really as normally I’m awake way before we arrive. Meg slept on my bed and for once didn’t take up ALL of the bed. Normally we’d make her stay on her bed but with all the strange noises it was easier for her to share with one of us.
There wasn’t much to see as we came in to port as the whole area was shrouded in mist.
Another thing we aren’t used to is going through passport control on the French side – we’ve just got used to having it all done on the Tunnel or in Dover. We handed over our marriage certificate with our passports to see if this would stop customs from stamping Gareth’s UK one, but disappointingly, his still got an entry stamp while my Irish one did not.
There aren’t any Aires near the old town of St Malo so we plumbed for a parking bay recommended on Park4Night. Just a couple of €’s for about 4 hours and then a 20 minute walk into town and the old ramparts.
The mist actually made emerging buildings a little mysterious as we wandered around. Apparently there are a few islands just off the beaches with forts on etc., we didn’t get to see them, instead all we could see was a murky smudge in the mist 
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You can walk on the ramparts for free and there are a few beaches to access. Dogs are permitted October to April, making Meg very happy indeed . It was eerie as we watched St Malo wake for the day. We can’t quite believe we were there so early ourselves 
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Such a lovely place for a wander through the cobbled streets. The buildings are mainly stone, a huge majority having been sympathetically rebuilt after WW2.
You find yourself exercising self restraint against the delicious sweet aromas wafting through the lanes from a myriad of patisseries and cafés 
goodness me.
We stumbled upon a lovely garden dedicated to the heroes of the resistance near the cathedral. What a tough bunch they must have been.
As always, when we visit out of season, there was a lot of renovation and roadworks occurring, but it didn’t stop us getting a good idea of how this place would look in the warmth and sunshine.
We stopped at one of the now open cafés for a coffee and pain au chocolate. There seemed to be a mix up with my coffee frappé as it came in the guise of an americano not to worry, just a little thing .
Making our way back to the van via the harbour, still in the mist, we passed a lovely old galleon style boat, I took a picture of the figurehead and then we realised it was a bar. Had we not just had a drink we would have stopped and sampled one at this very unusual venue. Arriving back to the van, we were surprised to see that we weren’t alone in the parking area anymore, in fact there were no free spaces. A very popular spot indeed.
Saying goodbye to St Malo we drove on to Dinan. I’d visited briefly about 11 years ago and wanted to go back for a better look.
Just outside Dinan in a place called Lehon there is a free Aire, though the water has been turned off there are still emptying services which we made good use of, before donning our walking shoes and heading – uphill – to the old town.
We were being very good. We passed a bus stop with people waiting but trundled on. It was about 30 minutes before we arrived on level ground in the historic centre and it was worth it.
Dinan has a medieval centre full of crooked houses. How they are still standing is anyone’s guess! Thick wooden upright beams supporting the jetties and upper floors that look like they are sinking slowly to the ground. Beautiful and amazing at the same time on cobbled streets with bars and shops at every turn.
Of course we had to stop for refreshments, a coffee for Gareth and a local Bretonne draught beer for me , well, it would be rude not to!
We made our way to the English garden, called that because it was an English Duchess who planted all her favourite plants and trees here. It’s right on the ramparts so you can wander over and look down from a great height to the port of Dinan – on the River Rance. Just as beautiful with bars and cafes lining the roadside, yachts and sailing boats of all sizes moored up along the quay.
We did wonder how any invading force thought it a good idea to climb the hill to get to the fortifications, especially with so many towers along the walls to repel you.
Before we left, we found a little grocery store for a few supplies for our first proper dinner in the van, and very successful it was too.
One other thing to mention is the gorgeous houses here, not just in the main town but all roads leading to it. No matter if big or small, they are very ornate with the typical turret style wherever they can fit them. It made for a very pleasant walk.
This little Aire has filled up this evening but is soooo quiet, another good night’s sleep awaits.
Sorry about the photo dump, I’ve collaged them to try and reduce the amount 
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